-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 15:14 am 6. Okt. 2015
Looks great :thumb:
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 14:37 am 6. Okt. 2015
Before i start soldering, is this the way you meant it to be?
(Geändert von DaPlague um 14:46 am 6. Okt. 2015)
And when i use my Über paint skills, would it look something like this?
(Geändert von DaPlague um 14:51 am 6. Okt. 2015)
I used this 7805:
(Geändert von DaPlague um 14:57 am 6. Okt. 2015)
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 13:25 am 6. Okt. 2015
May be you've bought another 7805 type or there's a disturbance source.
Yes, you can, in this case you don't need the 7805.
Just solder out the 7805 and solder +5V and GND from the USB conntector to these pins.
Here's the USB pinout:
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 13:08 am 6. Okt. 2015
After using the IR repeater for a while, I used 3 battery’s, it seems that when the battery’s voltage is below 8V the IR-Repeater doesn’t work anymore, the IR-LEDS are very weak and the red light lights up continuously (not flickering).
Is there something wrong with my build?
Can I replace the 9volt connector with a usb connector?
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 22:23 am 26. Sep. 2015
Great, good to read that the IR-Repeater is working now with all devices :thumb:
We also offer a tiny box for the infrared repeater in the fanshop with or without space for the battery.
Most TVs have enough USB ports to use one for the IR repeater.
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 22:05 am 26. Sep. 2015
Everything works now!
I replaced the 6.8K resitor with 2 wires, and lead them to the 1k resistor and the 10k rotary potentiometer, whom are connected in series, and without tuning it worked right away. (lucky me!)
Thank you for the patience and all the help and suggestions!, all i have to do now is find a suitable container for it, i was thinking of placing the IR-Reciever on my tv and connecting it by wire to the PCB.
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 7:30 am 25. Sep. 2015
Yes, looks nice, but it's not necessary to order them, because you've dozens of resistors and very tiny variable resistors in old PC parts like CDROM or DVDROM drives.
Offtopic: Thanks for the Noordwijk Hotel recommendation of your girlfriend :thumb:
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 22:11 am 24. Sep. 2015
Offtopic: Hotel Koningshof is a recommendation of my girlfriend (she is a travel agent)
Ontopic: Ive ordered a 1k resistor and a 10 potentiometer, should i connect it like this:
(Geändert von DaPlague um 22:12 am 24. Sep. 2015)
(Geändert von DaPlague um 22:13 am 24. Sep. 2015)
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 16:58 am 24. Sep. 2015
I would recommend the variable resistor.
The other devices should still work, because it should be just a minimum adjustment.
If the difference of the R4 resistor is too high that other devices won't work with the new resistor value, it could be indeed necessary to build another one.
But I would try before buy, then you know what you've to expect and if this works with your TX-NR626.
Offtopic: Thanks, I'll compare the prices next year before booking.
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 16:44 am 24. Sep. 2015
if i replace it with a 1k resistor and a 10k rotary potentiometer, will the other devices still work? or should i build another one with this modification? or is this an option:
If that doesn't work with your Onkyo TX-NR626, you could build a special cable for the external "IR IN MAIN" IR connection input - but this is worth a complete new topic. |
What would you recommend?
Offtopic: there are multiple hotels in and around Noordwijk, i would suggest to keep an eye out for special deals, if you would like to stay in the center of Noordwijk there are a lot of Hotels to choose from, if you dont mind to be on the outerside of Noordwijk i would recommend NH Hotel Leeuwenhorst
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 14:45 am 24. Sep. 2015
You could replace it with 1K resistor in series with 10K rotary potentiometer to be variable.
Two, middle price segment, first explore Noordwijk and do some geocaching :gc: then relax ;)
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 14:18 am 24. Sep. 2015
I've found the resistor on the board, but how do i adjust it? should it be replaced with a potentiometer? or is there a way to adjust it?
Offtopic: What kind of hotel are you looking for? how many people? what price range?(some hotels are very expensive) what would you like to do in or around Noordwijk?
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 19:18 am 23. Sep. 2015
R4 is the vertical resistor near NE555 and has 6.8K by default.
BTW. a little offtopic: Do you know a good hotel in Noordwijk ?
I'll try to visit Noordwijk next year.
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 19:09 am 23. Sep. 2015
Adjust the R4 resistor a bit in order to change the NE555 modulation frequency |
I'm willing to try to make it work on all my devices
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 18:56 am 23. Sep. 2015
Great, nice to read that it's now working with most devices :thumb:
I know the Onkyo TX-NR626, but I don't know they exact IR protocol, so you can do two things:
Adjust the R4 resistor a bit in order to change the NE555 modulation frequency (or 1K resistor in series with 10K rotary potentiometer to be variable).
This should work as long as they don't use a very unusal IR coding/frequency.
If that doesn't work with your Onkyo TX-NR626, you could build a special cable for the external "IR IN MAIN" IR connection input - but this is worth a complete new topic.
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 17:46 am 23. Sep. 2015
Good and bad news!
I recieved the correct ir-reciever and the IR-Repeater works on my TV (Samsung LE40A656)and PVR (Humax IRHD 5300C), but not on my Tuner (Onkyo TX-NR626).
So your statement that the ir-reciever was broken due to connecting it wrong was correct!
What could be the reason that my tuner doesnt work on the IR-Repeater?
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 22:39 am 18. Sep. 2015
I've already seen that you're from Noordwijk, I'll visit Noordwijk soon or later as well - really nice.
Next time order the original kit from our fanshop and I'll see if I'll come to Noordwijk ;)
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 18:30 am 18. Sep. 2015
ordered the correct one, i will let you know if that works,
Thanks for the help!!!
Greeting from Noordwijk! :thumb:
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 16:25 am 18. Sep. 2015
OK, then I think you've destroyed your SFH5110-38 IR module by your wrong SFH5110-38 pinout.
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 15:03 am 18. Sep. 2015
Yes:
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 8:16 am 18. Sep. 2015
Does the LED light up, when you connect Data and GND (not VCC !) from your SFH5110-38 IR module ?
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 19:44 am 17. Sep. 2015
what stupid of me, i didnt noticed the bad soldering.
i resoldered all the connections and made sure everything is how i think it should be.
But the problem still excists, no led activity ehrn i use a (any) remote.
The red-led and the IR-led both light up when disconnecting the battery.
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 13:31 am 17. Sep. 2015
There're some solder connections which are looking not really nice, but it's difficult to determine them on your picture.
So I would suggest, that you take a few minutes and resolder all points where you're unsure if they're connected.
In the following picture I've marked two points red, where I'm 90% sure that the connection is bad or even missing: 
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 22:45 am 16. Sep. 2015
Here is my new layout
When i disconnect the battery, both the led and the ir-led light up.
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 17:46 am 16. Sep. 2015
Sounds not very good, may be the IR module is broken by the wrong connections.
So no LED light, when you press a button on your remote ?
Don't hesitate to post a picture of your new circuit, may be there's a new failure.
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 14:32 am 16. Sep. 2015
I looked up the pinout of the SFH5110-38 and re-wired it according to the circuit, now nothing happends,,,
anything else that i should do?
Thank you for the help so far.
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 18:19 am 15. Sep. 2015
Yes, first of all, the SFH5110-38 pinout is wrong :danger:
So you should adjust the 3 pins from your ir receiver to the circuit.
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 15:31 am 15. Sep. 2015
Yes that was a typo,i have the 47 Ohm resistor.
So the TSOP34838 should be the problem,
is there any way to adjust the schematic? or is replacing the sensor with the correct one the only option?
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 14:39 am 15. Sep. 2015
SFH5110-38 is not tested, it should be: TSOP31238
Otherwise it's necessary to adjust the circuit.
And the 47 kOhm resistor should be an 47 Ohm resistor, but I think you made a typing error, don't you ?
Last but not least take a look at your parts and not at your order list, to make sure you received the right parts from your local dealer.
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 13:57 am 15. Sep. 2015
The parts i used are:
TSOP34838 = SFH5110-38
IC 8 pins LC
IR LED 950nm 5mm
LM555=NE555
+ 5V 7805
ceramic 1.0nF R2,5
BD139-10
BC549C
LED 5mm diffuse Red
MF 47 Ohm 0,25W
MF 1.5 kOhm 0,25W
MF 6.8 kOhm 0,25W
MF 10 kOhm 0,25W
Battery clip 9V
tantalum Elco 47uF 16V
breadboard
(Geändert von DaPlague um 14:03 am 15. Sep. 2015)
(Geändert von DaPlague um 14:41 am 15. Sep. 2015)
-- Veröffentlicht durch ocinside am 10:04 am 15. Sep. 2015
Welcome in our forum and greetings to Noordwijk :thumb:
The PCB back looks good, so all connections should be fine (as I'm able to see on your pictures).
But you're not using the parts of the IR-Repater kit, so I can't see, if you've really soldered the right electronic parts.
Please double check, if all parts are 100 percent equal to the parts from the IR-Repeater solder guide or the corresponding IR-Repeater Kit.
-- Veröffentlicht durch DaPlague am 9:41 am 15. Sep. 2015
Hello,
I tried to create the IR Repeater
When I connect the battery the red led lights up and the IR led lights up too.
I provided some pictures of my build.
anyone an idea what i did wrong?
